I tested Colin the Caterpillar’s new frozen cousin… it’s an incredible, melt-in-middle cake with snappier skeleton

THE year 1990 was one of huge cultural significance: German reunification, the launch of the wide world web, Nelson Mandela’s release from prison, and, seismically, the birth of Colin the Caterpillar.

Now, to mark his 35th birthday, a new chocolatey grub is to be unveiled . . . Meet Arctic Colin.

Dan Charity

The Sun’s Clemmie Moodie with Arctic Colin[/caption]

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Dame Judi Dench with candles in her Colin the Caterpillar cake[/caption]

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Taylor Swift was papped with Colin’s pink-theme girlfriend, Connie[/caption]

The Sun was dispatched to Marks & Spencer HQ to meet the chap himself, and test the semi-freddo specimen: A celebration cake that, as the name suggests, emerges from the freezer before eating.

Laura Bradley, M&S “product developer for frozen”, tells me: “Arctic Colin has been two years in the making, and numerous non- disclosure agreements have been signed.

“A lot of love and care has gone into his formation, and we’re all really proud of what we’ve produced.

“He has been shrouded in secrecy. We haven’t even been able to tell our friends or families about it, let alone let them try samples.

“So you are going to be the first person in the whole wide world — well, outside of these kitchens — to try Arctic Colin. It’s a big day.”

It is indeed. As The Sun’s Chief Colin Correspondent, I can assure readers that no chocolate foot, exoskeleton nor decorative bean was left unturned.

Celebrity fans

Arctic Colin looks fairly similar to the OG, but it’s as though Frozen’s Elsa has got her hands on him.

Tiny frosticles glisten on his back and the multi-coloured chocolate beans are more muted in colour.

As Dan the cameraman films away, I try to delicately cut my first slice, only to be met with some resistance. This will be the frozen element, then.

Once Colin has been left out to thaw slightly for the suggested 40 minutes, I’m greeted by a delicious, silky, milk chocolate semi-frozen mousse.


I then hit the traditional sponge layer, followed by a sliver of rich ganache.

It. Is. Incredible. Like a cold, melt-in-the-middle Colin, with a snappier chocolate outside.

I definitely prefer new Colin’s shell.

Much to the bemusement (disgust) of my colleagues and friends, I usually pick at the original caterpillar’s sponge because it is my least favourite part.

I eat everything around it, including the white-chocolate face, leaving a trail of sponge in my wake.

With the new one, everything goes.

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Olivia Rodrigo posted a TikTok video of her biting adoringly into him[/caption]

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Ed Sheeran celebrating a birthday with a toy[/caption]

Alamy

M&S’ Alice Birch said: ‘It takes a team of 47 people to lovingly make him from start to finish, and no Colin is entirely identical’[/caption]

The semi-freddo — meaning “half-cold” in Italian, and consisting of egg yolks, sugar and cream — has a smoother and softer texture than the original.

My only disappointments, though, are the white-chocolate face and paws.

“Erm, they’re boots, not paws,” says Alice Birch, who is in charge of cakes across M&S. Well, his boots then.

Perhaps the cake hasn’t been allowed to thaw for long enough, but the white chocolate tastes far blander than its 35-year-old big brother. For once, I don’t eat the whole thing.

But I do go back for two more slices of Arctic Colin which, pleasingly, comes in at around 25 fewer calories per chunk.

He is made from free-range eggs, unlike some cost-cutting rivals (more on them later) is being released in time for a forecasted Indian summer.

At present, Colin attends over one million celebrations annually


Alice Birch

“At present, Colin attends over one million celebrations annually,” smiles Alice, as she tucks in beside me.

“He has loads of celebrity fans such as David Beckham, Liam Gallagher, Dame Judi Dench, and has been lovingly made in the same bakery in Oldham since his conception.

“It takes a team of 47 people to lovingly make him from start to finish, and no Colin is entirely identical.”

After badgering the M&S publicity team for months to do something with Colin the Caterpillar, I was sent a very official-looking NDA, peppered with Percy Pig seals.

After solemnly swearing not to disclose any knowledge of such a seminal moment in Colin folklore, I was allowed down to the store’s Paddington base, where food hall goodies are designed, tweaked, heated, and tested.

Since Colin’s birth in 1990, there have been 30 product variants, including a bag of miniature chocolate faces (my fave), fruit sours and mousse.

It takes a team of 47 people to lovingly make him from start to finish, and no Colin is entirely identical


Alice Birch

He has become a household name, but a few years ago Colin was rocked by a shameless attempted coup.

In April 2021, M&S launched legal action against German discount store Aldi, following the launch of its suspiciously similar Cuthbert Caterpillar Cake.

Ten months later, the two retail giants settled their public copyright dispute.

While M&S said it was “pleased” with the outcome, Aldi claimed Cuthbert was “free” and “looking forward” to seeing his fans.

Aldi later brought out a limited-edition cake for charity.

Although Cuthbert remains Colin’s main rival, other supermarkets have launched their own variations including Morrisons’ Morris the Caterpillar, Tesco’s Slinky the Caterpillar and Waitrose’s Cecil the Caterpillar.

None have the je ne sais quoi of our Colin, though.

Gingerly, I enquire about the young pretenders and I’m met with a wall of silence, as arctic as Colin.

Labour of love

However, I can reveal M&S lawyers have signed a one-year “exclusivity deal” with the supplier, meaning no other retailer can sell a frozen caterpillar dessert over the next 12 months.

Fourteen variations of Arctic Colin, which will sell for £15, were tested before the finished product was agreed on.

This really has been a labour of love.

Such is Colin’s popularity around the world, American superstar Olivia Rodrigo has posted a TikTok video of her biting adoringly into him, and only last week Hollywood actor Austin Butler had a nibble, describing it as an “attractive cake”.

Colin has more than 75,000 followers on Instagram, and his pink-theme girlfriend, Connie — who was introduced to fans in 2016 — has been papped with feminist singer Taylor Swift on one of her trips to the UK.

Over the past two weeks, M&S has been teasing followers on social media with its new launch, leaving them to guess what it could be.

They will not be disappointed.

Having sampled three slices of Arctic Colin before breakfast, I am introduced to the real Colin the Caterpillar.

By real, I mean a poor woman dressed in a caterpillar costume, whom I awkwardly hug, and shake paws/boots with.

Colin’s popularity around these parts mean he will soon be awarded a blue plaque, which will be installed on the building to mark his significant contribution to British society.

Take that Cuthbert!

  • Arctic Colin launches in M&S stores across the country tomorrow.
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